Example, the twin truss rod design... I've been told you need to adjust this every time you restring?
Ha! No - that's one of the classic myths. Once adjusted right, the Rickenbacker system is actually MORE stable than most, and once it's really settled down - which can take a few years, as with any guitar - many owners report that they then don't ever need adjusting again, even after decades.
Just how much fussing about does that truss rod setup need?
It's just a little more involved than a normal single rod, just because there are two. In theory, each affects its own side of the neck, but in practice they both affect both sides, just one more than the other. So to get it really right you may have to adjust one, then the other, then the first again, etc etc. But once you see how much each one is affecting each side of the neck it's not really difficult.
Also, that the guitar feels too light... like it'd break up easy if dropped from the torso height.
That would not be a good idea - but then it wouldn't with most guitars, even including a Telecaster. You wouldn't snap the neck of a Tele like that, but you would likely do fairly serious damage to the finish and might bend some of the hardware, depending on how it landed. With a Rick... I'd be worried about the headstock, neck joint and body cracks, and if it fell face down you'd almost certainly break the pickguards and may damage the bridge. You need to take good care of any instrument, I'm sure Clint would agree!
I'm not saying these things are facts. I mean, I read them on the internet so... a grain of salt you know. That is why I'm asking the brothers in arms here... for the true facts about growing old with one.
There are definitely a lot of myths about Ricks, more than with most other guitars. They ARE a little different, but not that much, and really the main one is the double truss rods. The basses did have a bad reputation for "flimsy" necks because of this, as up to 1984 the truss rod design was different and improper adjustment - usually for heavier strings - could damage the rods (making them impossible to adjust again) or even pop the fingerboard off at the head end. But the design was changed 25 years ago now.
This brings me to another question... if these 330 models are selling for $1699 what does the actual dealer have into them then? I'd like to know what wiggle room there might be... especially if I've got cash in hand ready to deal (not that I do right now at this very moment). Any ideas on what these cost dealers? Sorry if this offends any of you who are dealers... but... it's not like I'm asking for top secrete info. I mean, with the lack of good stock at hand... dealers are holding on to them regardless of privileged info.
We aren't allowed to discuss prices here (don't worry, you won't get banned for a first offense!) but since the demand for Ricks far exceeds supply you're unlikely to have much 'wiggle room'. It never hurts to ask though.
Oh... and I've got to stop looking at cheaper options as well. I've seen that Epiphone Nick Valensi model... very nice for $700! Problem being... it STILL wouldn't be a RIC... and I didn't go through bullshit cancer to treat myself to a non-RIC substitute right? I bet if I did purchase something else... I'd only be back here crying about it saying, "I should have saved my bills for that Rickenbacker after all... waaaaah..." :^) No, I must hold strong... save my cash... and hope for more selection to try.
There is no cheaper substitute :-). If you want a Rick, save your pennies and wait for the right one - it's worth it.
Be aware that there are a few 'Rick-a-likes' you might find occasionally, but none of them play or sound like the real thing even if they look quite close, and most of them are illegal infringements of RIC trademarks. Unlike other companies (like Fender, who have just lost some important rights to their own designs in court), RIC is very vigorous in defending its trademarks and you can't even legally sell a used example.
If you're really unlucky you might find an actual fake - ie a copy dressed up as the real thing with a fake logo. (Most of these are 330-style, too - or 4001 basses.) If you're not experienced with the genuine item, some of them can be fairly convincing, but none stand up to close inspection, even in pics. If you're offered one for what seems like a too-good-to-be-true price, it probably is! Ask here and some of us should be able to tell if it's genuine or not.