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 Post subject: 12 saddle bridge for 360 C63
 Post Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 10:00 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 10, 2010 4:34 am
Posts: 6
Location: Bay City MI
Need some info,
since i'm new to this forum and this is my first ric purchase. EWhat is the "truth" on changing out a six saddle bridge for a 12 on a 360 12 C63. I know that it would not be all "original vintage", but does it intonate better and worth the cost? Any advice would be appreciated.


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 Post subject: Re: 12 saddle bridge for 360 C63
 Post Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 11:12 pm 
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Posts: 3834
Search the forum and you will find many discussion points on this issue.


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 Post subject: Re: 12 saddle bridge for 360 C63
 Post Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 11:48 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2005 1:00 pm
Posts: 1416
Location: SF CA
Amen. Briefly, many think that the slight misintonation between octave pairs is a good part of the charm of a Rick 12's sound. They're the 6-saddle fans.

Others--who have dog ears--want things to be "dead nuts" on. They favor 12 saddles.


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 Post subject: Re: 12 saddle bridge for 360 C63
 Post Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 12:59 am 
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Location: Ohio
And then there are those of us who can't tell the difference because we rarely bother to tune anyway.

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 Post subject: Re: 12 saddle bridge for 360 C63
 Post Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 12:59 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 02, 2006 1:00 pm
Posts: 1957
Location: San Bernardino, CA
Certainly one of the most ongoing provocative, prolific and timeless discussions, this topic is.

I say, keep your 12 banger Ric entirely OEM with the as factory issued 6 saddle bridge.
They key is GOOD strings. Stick with the Ric (brand) strings and you can't go wrong.


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 Post subject: Re: 12 saddle bridge for 360 C63
 Post Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 1:44 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 16, 2005 2:00 pm
Posts: 2962
Location: Scotland
The truth is that originality is not compromised in any way - the bridge is only resting on the guitar and held down by string tension, so nothing whatever is permanently changed... you can swap back and forth any time you want if you keep the old bridge. The RIC 12-saddle bridge is a superior quality replacement part made by the company and is supplied as stock on all their premier 12-string models, so it can't even be considered a non-original part in that sense either.

Personally, I can't see anything you can do with the 6-saddle bridge that you *can't* do with the 12 - the difference is that with the 12, you have various different options including deliberate (but now precisely controlled) detuning, if you want.

It does depend on what strings you use - but even with the factory ones, the 6-saddle bridge is not perfect, you can easily tell this if you look at a correctly set 12-saddle one and see where the individual pairs are.

It also depends on what you play - if you're only playing typical open chords, solo notes and possibly barre chords with a clean tone, you may love the sound of the slight detuning. If (like me) you play with distortion or use chords which contain both open strings and notes fretted high up (especially beyond the 12th fret) you may love it less...

I do understand vintage purists wanting to keep things just as they were in the 60s, but I still know at least one who put the 12-saddle bridge on his 360/12V64 because the intonation just wasn't right before. Neither he nor I have dog ears either!


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 Post subject: Re: 12 saddle bridge for 360 C63
 Post Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 4:40 am 
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Location: San Bernardino, CA
But, if some guy with German Shepherd-like "dog's ears" turns up and it's not Leonard Nimoy in character I'd be damned frightened.

(Plus hating for such individuals with the upwards pointies requires a severe amount of retrofitting of the headgear necessary!)


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 Post subject: Re: 12 saddle bridge for 360 C63
 Post Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 7:50 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2009 8:56 am
Posts: 183
Location: escondido CA
Quote:
does it intonate better and worth the cost?


yes and yes! However you will need to have the saddles slotted.


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 Post subject: Re: 12 saddle bridge for 360 C63
 Post Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 8:08 am 
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Joined: Sat Sep 27, 2008 10:49 pm
Posts: 573
Location: Stanstead, QC
The first step I would take would be to have the nut slot height really well adjusted with the original 6-saddle bridge.

I was more than just a little disconcerted when my 660/12 couldn't really be tuned over more than a few frets on 2 strings. Too high a nut slot and it would sound fine when open but ended up going sharp, especially on the first few frets, because of stretching the string more than intended when fretting hard.

Roger McGuinn suggests playing with a capo on the first fret in his video, probably as a slap-dash cure for this nut height issue.

The 12-saddle bridge is also designed for the marginally wider string spacing on the 660, but you can use your existing 6-saddle as a pattern to cut the slots on the 12.

The previous comments regarding preferring the "classic" vs "correct" sound are quite valid, but if you don't venture much above the 7th fret when playing your 12, I don't think the 12-saddle bridge will make a significant difference.









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 Post subject: Re: 12 saddle bridge for 360 C63
 Post Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 1:33 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 16, 2005 2:00 pm
Posts: 2962
Location: Scotland
Quote:
The first step I would take would be to have the nut slot height really well adjusted with the original 6-saddle bridge.

I was more than just a little disconcerted when my 660/12 couldn't really be tuned over more than a few frets on 2 strings. Too high a nut slot and it would sound fine when open but ended up going sharp, especially on the first few frets, because of stretching the string more than intended when fretting hard.

Roger McGuinn suggests playing with a capo on the first fret in his video, probably as a slap-dash cure for this nut height issue.

The previous comments regarding preferring the "classic" vs "correct" sound are quite valid, but if you don't venture much above the 7th fret when playing your 12, I don't think the 12-saddle bridge will make a significant difference.
Exactly - the 12-saddle bridge is to correct the intonation higher up the neck, not in the low positions. The common complaint about sharp tuning issues on the low strings at frets 1-3 is purely caused by the nut and will *not* be helped by the 12-saddle bridge. Tuning the low E a little flat is another work-around, but it also isn't necessary if the nut is cut really right.

But if you're noticing tuning issues higher up the neck when the open strings and the low positions are perfect, that is definitely where the 12-saddle bridge can help.


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