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 Post subject: Re: Getting My First Ric in Few Months Should it be 330 or 3
 Post Posted: Fri Nov 04, 2011 10:08 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 26, 2010 5:52 pm
Posts: 1007
Location: Australia
anothersixstringer wrote:
jbudweiser wrote:
So hard in fact, I made the choice the simplest way,,,,,I got a 381 LOL
Who wants to spend time vacillating, all day long over which is best a 330 or 360 when you can just play a 381! :lol: :lol: :lol:


High five on the 381!!!


:lol: Better hang ten there Anothersixstringer It's in Midnite blue, I think there is only 2 or so 381V69/6 strings around that I know of, so it a very special instrument

Actually it was one day when I was listening to some of the music you have left on site. I noticed in some of your jazz notation solos, your guitars voice sounded so
smooth up and down the fretboard ( consistantancy in bass mid and high notes)
That's like the sound I get from my 381, that clear consistent tone no matter what fret or string you are on, it's beautiful!

Now even though I was using average computer speakers and yours was a home recording, I could hear the tone of your guitar very well! The 381 is a full bodied semi acoustic, it has depth and richness and a unique sound as well. Having said that I do hear many similarities between my 381 and your guitar!

You should see the head-stock one a 381, it so thick the whole guitar is so solid, no wonder the sustain is there along with the big rich voice.

:lol: I think there's an update for you on the Capo post. Wanted to ask have you been to Spain? I've never been but wish I could.


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 Post subject: Re: Getting My First Ric in Few Months Should it be 330 or 3
 Post Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 8:11 am 
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Posts: 39
Location: Ontario
jbudweiser wrote:
:lol: Better hang ten there Anothersixstringer It's in Midnite blue, I think there is only 2 or so 381V69/6 strings around that I know of, so it a very special instrument


Double congrats! I have read that the 381 has a fuller sound than the 330 and the 360; apparently, this is so because of the body construction. I'm glad to hear you like the sound and find it similar to the one I got from my 330; that is a nice compliment to the guitar. I think in general, Rics are wonderful instruments that can, and should play every type of style there is. I absolutely believe they are good for every purpose, it just depends on the player. My current gig band plays a bar setlist which includes all the range from the 70's til now, going through hard rock, pop, disco (!), indie, etc. I am the only guitar player and yep, I use the 330 to big acclaim ( you have to see the people's eyes when they see the MapleGlo hit by the light!)

This brings us back to this thread. I also read on this forum (I think) that the 330 has more internal space and therefore sounds different than the 360: it is a little more of a traditional hollow body, moving toward the other extreme, which ends on the 381 build and sound.

As I stated before, I also had a 360 and it is a fantastic guitar, I think that eventually all Ric lovers would consider getting all models, or buying the ones that inspire them the most, because of sounds, looks and/or artist/band following.

Currently, I am in a honeymoon with my 660/12FG. I am having so much joy in discovering all secrets of playing with the 12 strings, old songs I loved come back under a different light. (eg. intro to Wish you Were here...I played it for years with octave fingering ...! and don't get me started on the the fab four and Harrison solo years!)

I am curious to find out what was the final decision or current thoughts by the starter of this thread...hoping this all chatter has any use for him :)


ps: @jbud: haven't been to Spain, still have some relatives there but that is a long story :) Cheers!


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 Post subject: Re: Getting My First Ric in Few Months Should it be 330 or 3
 Post Posted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 9:57 pm 
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Ain'tGotNoPokemon wrote:

"Second of all, Rick won't give you any specific feedback problems - they're semi-hollows, not hollows." As soon as I touched my MXR Dist +, I got a wailing wall of nasty feedback on my 360. It set off my house alarm system once, as well.


-If you had *those* kinds of issues, then it's clearly not the guitar's problem - possibly a combo of things, but definitely not the guitar alone (although it may work well in experimental music). First of all, you didn't say anything about a distortion pedal - you just said 300 series were feedback prone. No, they're not - but if you put a heavy overdrive on it at a certain setting under certain conditions, then *every* guitar will feedback, including solids, even a strat or an SG. Try it again with another axe and you'll have the same problems. The idea that you would plug in, say an Epi Casino, and not have feedback, and then plug in a Rick under the exact same circumstances and your house alarm goes off solely because of the Rick and no other factors is just silly. There are other variables as well, volume of amp, distance between guitar and amp, and even the direction and angle-degree your guitar is pointed toward/away from your amp. If you are always facing your cranked amp, then yeah, but if you're on stage and facing away from it and know how to use reasonable amp/pedal settings, then no. The only time I get feedback from mine, it's controlled, and on purpose - and I could do that with several of my other axes as well.

Ain'tGotNoPokemon wrote:

"Third of all, just my $0.02, you don't need a "noise reduction pedal/device" to play rock." With a solidbody guitar, sure. With a Ric, and a certain about of gain, yes.


-Note I'm using the word "need." Sorry, but you don't definitively need a noise reduction pedal/device to play rock on a semi-hollow - at most, it's a matter of opinion (as I noted). I've been playing rock music at live performances and in the studio for 20-plus years, and seen a ton of bands (some acquaintances, some strangers), and I don't ever recall even seeing one. Does that mean we're not playing rock correctly? The only time I'd think you'd need one of those is if your signal chain is too noisy from too many pedals. My noise reduction "device" is an uncluttered signal chain.

Ain'tGotNoPokemon wrote:

"Compressors are good on Ricks for jangle picking, but I wouldn't compress a guitar if you're playing blues." Many players utilize Compression for more than their clean tone. With my 620/12, a Boss SD-1 and a MXR Dyna Comp, that thing not only has beautiful, clear tone, but holds a note for days.


-Many players do, yes, I know. However, I still wouldn't - and this is after having a few myself, including an MXR D/comp. Don't squash that tone - let the amp and the guitar (and the player) give it the tone.

However, none of this is to say you aren't entitled to your preference against 360s, even after you dropped your beef with the company. As far as the tone between 330s and 360s goes, I think John Hall once said on here that the difference is slight, but 330s are slightly more "acoustic" sounding, which makes sense since the cavity is slightly larger in it. Didn't you say on here that you don't agree with the statement that you get one sound out of a Rick?

Good luck on your master's thesis.PS - why the name change from "Bucks_Student," though?


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 Post subject: Re: Getting My First Ric in Few Months Should it be 330 or 3
 Post Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 8:06 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 12, 2006 2:00 pm
Posts: 1330
Location: Long Beach, California
Easy decision:

1. Which body shape looks more appealing to you?

2. dots and no neck or sound hole binding, or triangle inlays and binding? :)


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 Post subject: Re: Getting My First Ric in Few Months Should it be 330 or 3
 Post Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 11:30 pm 
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Posts: 372
Location: Bossier City, La.
Howdy,

Play both (if possible) and get whichever model "feels" best. After years with each model, I cannot hear a difference-and I'm a bit embarrased to admit this! Currently my only Rickenbacker is a 360-6 in MapleGlo and I'm not parting with it. BTW, one can rock out and play the Blues just fine on a 300 series Rickenbacker; I' have a blast playing my 360 through my Dr.Z Carmen Ghia!


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 Post subject: Re: Getting My First Ric in Few Months Should it be 330 or 3
 Post Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 2:49 pm 
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Posts: 251
Location: Tulsa, Okalhoma
I think there's a few terminology problems here....

First, when everyone talks about "feedback” there is really two kinds. The first is where the amplified sound vibrates the guitar top, causing a sympathetic resonance in the string, which then goes out through the amp, and vibrates the top some more, ect. The result is that you have to keep the strings damped when you’re not playing.

The seconds is “squeal” caused when the microphony of a pickup feeds back in the same manner as a microphone. “Pickup feedback” is an entirely different animal from “body feedback” and is not strongly influenced by body type. They are two different effects, and have different causes. My 60’s SG “feeds back” in the latter manner, although the body is entirely solid.

Next, defining “semi hollow” construction is always a bit of a problem. A Gibson 330 is classically “semi-hollow” instrument, e.g., separate back, sides and top, but with a block to support the bridge that differentiates it from traditional hollow construction. . A Rick 300 series is closer (though not identical)to a 335, with a center block all the way down the middle from neck to tail, and a top that consequently does not move much in response to string vibrations. It had been my experience that these type of bodes are not much more prone to vibration type feedback than solids.


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 Post subject: Re: Getting My First Ric in Few Months Should it be 330 or 3
 Post Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 4:11 pm 
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martinH wrote:
I think there's a few terminology problems here....

First, when everyone talks about "feedback” there is really two kinds. The first is where the amplified sound vibrates the guitar top, causing a sympathetic resonance in the string, which then goes out through the amp, and vibrates the top some more, ect. The result is that you have to keep the strings damped when you’re not playing.

The seconds is “squeal” caused when the microphony of a pickup feeds back in the same manner as a microphone. “Pickup feedback” is an entirely different animal from “body feedback” and is not strongly influenced by body type. They are two different effects, and have different causes. My 60’s SG “feeds back” in the latter manner, although the body is entirely solid.

Next, defining “semi hollow” construction is always a bit of a problem. A Gibson 330 is classically “semi-hollow” instrument, e.g., separate back, sides and top, but with a block to support the bridge that differentiates it from traditional hollow construction. . A Rick 300 series is closer (though not identical)to a 335, with a center block all the way down the middle from neck to tail, and a top that consequently does not move much in response to string vibrations. It had been my experience that these type of bodes are not much more prone to vibration type feedback than solids.


Martin, the whole discussion was back in November. I scarcely remember anything from it.

Basically, what you're saying is that semi-hollow Rickenbackers don't feedback more than solidbody guitars. I can only say I disagree, and that my case was rested months ago.


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 Post subject: Re: Getting My First Ric in Few Months Should it be 330 or 3
 Post Posted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 12:05 pm 
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OBJECTION - calls for speculation. I reserve 2 minutes for rebuttal. ;)

martinH wrote:
A Gibson 330 is classically “semi-hollow” instrument, e.g., separate back, sides and top, but with a block to support the bridge that differentiates it from traditional hollow construction. . A Rick 300 series is closer (though not identical)to a 335, with a center block all the way down the middle from neck to tail, and a top that consequently does not move much in response to string vibrations. It had been my experience that these type of bodes are not much more prone to vibration type feedback than solids.


I may be mistaken here, but I believe Gibson 330s are hollow, whereas Gibson 335s are only semi-hollow. Also, I'm fairly sure that a Rick 300 series guitar doesn't have one block that runs all the way down to the tail (thus separating the guitar into two, separate hollow spaces) the way a Gibson 335 does; the block in Rick's 300 series guitars, which is an elongated neck pocket, ends around the bridge, meaning that the hollow cavity is "u" shaped and wraps around the tail behind the bridge. This explains why Gibson 335s have a tailpiece screwed down into the top, whereas Rick 300s have more of a trapeze style on the back of the guitar side, suspending the strings over the full length of the body (like a Gibson 330).

I agree that Rick 300s are no more prone to feedback than any other guitar in normal circumstances, e.g., absent heavy distortion or standing too close to and/or facing the amp, isolated incidents aside. I play in a relatively-loud, regularly-gigging rock band which almost always plays at stage volume and I've have never had unwanted feedback problems with my Rick 360.


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 Post subject: Re: Getting My First Ric in Few Months Should it be 330 or 3
 Post Posted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 1:54 pm 
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Location: Tulsa, Okalhoma
Rickissippi wrote:
OBJECTION - calls for speculation. I reserve 2 minutes for rebuttal. ;)

martinH wrote:
A Gibson 330 is classically “semi-hollow” instrument, e.g., separate back, sides and top, but with a block to support the bridge that differentiates it from traditional hollow construction. . A Rick 300 series is closer (though not identical)to a 335, with a center block all the way down the middle from neck to tail, and a top that consequently does not move much in response to string vibrations. It had been my experience that these type of bodes are not much more prone to vibration type feedback than solids.


I may be mistaken here, but I believe Gibson 330s are hollow, whereas Gibson 335s are only semi-hollow. Also, I'm fairly sure that a Rick 300 series guitar doesn't have one block that runs all the way down to the tail (thus separating the guitar into two, separate hollow spaces) the way a Gibson 335 does; the block in Rick's 300 series guitars, which is an elongated neck pocket, ends around the bridge, meaning that the hollow cavity is "u" shaped and wraps around the tail behind the bridge. This explains why Gibson 335s have a tailpiece screwed down into the top, whereas Rick 300s have more of a trapeze style on the back of the guitar side, suspending the strings over the full length of the body (like a Gibson 330).

I agree that Rick 300s are no more prone to feedback than any other guitar in normal circumstances, e.g., absent heavy distortion or standing too close to and/or facing the amp, isolated incidents aside. I play in a relatively-loud, regularly-gigging rock band which almost always plays at stage volume and I've have never had unwanted feedback problems with my Rick 360.


My learned colleague may be (for the purposes of this discussion only, and without conceding precedent or fixing the law of the case, and certainly without conceding any prevailing party status for fee purposes) correct about the 330. ( gulping sound of crow passing down throat) I've never opened one up. All the examples I've seen had a tune-o-matic on screw studs that went into the top. I always assumed there was something other than 1/4 inch of plywood holding them in. My 360, like yours, seems no more prone to feedback in high gain situations than my various solid instruments.


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 Post subject: Re: Getting My First Ric in Few Months Should it be 330 or 3
 Post Posted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 2:55 pm 
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"My 360, like yours, seems no more prone to feedback in high gain situations than my various solid instruments."

What's the volume of the amp?

When you say high gain, are you saying you are playing your Ric through a high gain amp, such as a Mesa, a pedal, or do you have a less drastic opinion of what high gain is?

Where are you when you're playing your Ric through "high gain?" A gig? A room in your home?

What position are you in regards to the amp? Example: I play sitting down, with the guitar facing away from the amp, but the amp is to my right or left, and a reasonable distance away.

If you're using a high gain amp or pedal, what kind is it?

Are you utilizing any noise suppression unit?

Because I asked you these questions, it's only fair that I answer them too.

1. When I owned my 360, it was played through a Fender HRD 2009, unmodded at the time. The volume was always around two.

2. The HRD obviously does not have a high gain option. I played the 360 through an MXR Dist + or a Boss Superoverdrive, or both. The MXR would give me feedback on the 360, but did not for any of my other instruments. The Boss worked well with the Rickenbacker. If it was both pedals on, which I do for lead guitar, the Ric would feedback even when I was playing notes.

3. I play in my home. At the time, it was my office where I never use any sort of lighting during the day because the sun lets in enough light through the curtains.

4. I answered the question above, but the Ric has less feedback when facing a certain angle away from the amp.

5. At the time, I did not use any noise suppression.

:)


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