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 Post subject: Re: 330/6 toggle switch replacement
 Post Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 8:54 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 04, 2008 9:45 pm
Posts: 32
The part number that Switchcraft uses is 12013. You can find these cheaper (Mojo), but they are the Gibson type. The only difference is the threaded shaft is shorter (5/16") as opposed (1/2") on a Ric. The Toggle bat is shorter as well.



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 Post subject: Re: 330/6 toggle switch replacement
 Post Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 9:49 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 16, 2005 2:00 pm
Posts: 2962
Location: Scotland
As a professional repairer I would just add that it's extremely unusual to need to replace these switches, contrary to what some techs will tell you. Almost the only reason is if the toggle thread itself has broken off, which can happen if it's hit hard enough. The other occasional problems of noise and jumping out of position can be cured easily as said above.

It's sadly common to see a nice old instrument with a crappy replacement switch (often badly fitted) that some tech charged the owner good money to replace when it was completely unnecessary. Luckily it's not too hard to put the right one back.

Actually, the same usually applies to pots too - the CTS ones used by RIC and most other US companies are far higher quality than the other-brand replacements usually fitted, and although they can eventually wear out with really extreme use over decades, more commonly they just need cleaning.

This matters more on collectable vintage instruments since the pots carry a date code which can be used to date or authenticate a guitar, so it's better to leave the originals if they are salvageable. It's even possible to replace a broken switch toggle and not the rest of the switch if you tap out the pivot pin, which I will usually do on really vintage instruments to retain as much originality as possible. This means that you don't have to undo all the solder connections either.


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 Post subject: Re: 330/6 toggle switch replacement
 Post Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 2:36 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 28, 2009 2:21 pm
Posts: 7
Location: England
I'm relieved I found this post ... the exact same thing is happening with the toggle switch on my 360. It's snapping back into the centre when I try to select the bridge pickup. I was on the brink of buying a replacement just now then found this, and it certainly seems economical to attempt a fix first. However I've never done much beyond changing strings before (!) - any chance of a few pics somewhere, so I can see what to do? I have no idea what to expect when I open her up.
Any help much appreciated.


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 Post subject: Re: 330/6 toggle switch replacement
 Post Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 2:45 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 16, 2005 2:00 pm
Posts: 2962
Location: Scotland
It's actually easier to open it up!

Just have a look at the way the switch blades move when the toggle is pushed to either side and you will see what the problem is. Usually you will just need to bend the 'tab' part (that the toggle rests on when it's in one of the side positions) to a very slightly sharper angle, so the toggle 'sticks' on it. Don't overdo it or it can jam when you move the toggle back to the center.

The best tool to use is a pair of PLAIN (not ribbed/serrated, so you don't chew up the surfaces) flat-nose or needle-nose pliers. If you don't have any, it's well worth the investment of two or three pounds at Homebase or your local hardware store - they're cheaper than a new switch and have a lot more uses!


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 Post subject: Re: 330/6 toggle switch replacement
 Post Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 12:35 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 23, 2009 8:03 pm
Posts: 55
http://www.bestguitarparts.com/guitar-p ... Switch.htm @ $12.00 USD....

but JH is correct in that I don't think these are Switchcraft and the difference in quality is noticeable on first glace. The original Boutique part is well worth the money if it came to that.

Glad to hear you got it sorted though.


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 Post subject: Re: 330/6 toggle switch replacement
 Post Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 1:16 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 28, 2009 2:21 pm
Posts: 7
Location: England
... well that was easy, considering I've never attempted any repair or mod before. All sorted within two minutes and saved me £20 - thanks!


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 Post subject: Re: 330/6 toggle switch replacement
 Post Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 11:56 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 16, 2005 2:00 pm
Posts: 2962
Location: Scotland
Well done! Basic guitar maintenance is actually not too hard, usually - most people with enough manual dexterity to play the thing can handle simple repairs like this, if they're given the confidence to do it and not worry that they're going to mess something up.

Welcome to the forum!


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 Post subject: Re: 330/6 toggle switch replacement
 Post Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2019 11:58 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 04, 2009 3:15 am
Posts: 674
Location: Florida
here's what my 1966 switch looks like, this is not your typical "Gibson" switch, this is something else. There are "spring contacts".

if you bend them a little, they will catch again.

Attachment:
01-Rick-370-12.JPG [90.57 KiB]
Not downloaded yet


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 Post subject: 330/6 toggle switch replacement
 Post Posted: Sun Apr 21, 2019 2:30 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 04, 2019 11:17 am
Posts: 7
Location: Russia
My toggle switch failed again this weekend. It seems like they really dont stand up to the vibrations of the car very well. Anyone have a recomendation on either a better toggle switch or maybe a great rocker switch?

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