Great thread

Regarding the tight rods:
You could remove the tape from the rods to make it easier to get them in and out. You can always apply new tap if you get any rattling from the rods.

I had a hard time getting one of them in when replacing rods in a ’96 bass. The original rods where wrapped in tap, and the new once had heat shrink tubes on them. I could have gotten them in if I worked on it, but I knew I would probably never be able to get them out again. Anyway, I stripping off the heat shrink, thinking I could always wrap them up in tape later if I there was any rattling. With the rods completely loose there was of course some rattle, but when tightened up a little I get no rattling. So, no need for tape or anything on the rods in that bass.

Also, I took one of the old rods, bent the threaded tip up just a little, and used it to scrape through the channel a few times to get out any tape or glue residues.

Thanks for that! These tips help fill out my experience, things I did not do or could have/should have done.

Good news, bad news (Woe is me. )

The good news: I've been adjusting the neck slightly each day for the past three days without the strings on; the adjustment nuts are getting rather tight. I checked the neck with a straight edge -- just just about flat:

After a startling discovery about my neck, I checked the other (high e) side of the fretboard and it's about the same -- very slight space that I could not slip an index card through. Getting there....

The bad new: I don't know why I looked, but I looked down lengthwise the top of the neck/fretboard; about had a heart attack. Seems to be.... TWISTED!!! I'll start a new thread. (I'm not having as much fun now... )

Maxwell ....It still a good sign that the neck seems to be fairly straight. Good to hear that the treble side is the same. I can see a gap at about 4.6 on the ruler, string tension will increase this gap. You still will have to tighten the rods more at some stage

I'm really hoping your wrong re that twist I hope it was your eyes not the neck LOL , or that it is that slight it makes no difference
Is it possible to take a pic of the neck length ways??? ....we might be able to see this twist

Just a reminder use a nut driver for the rod tightening, again thanks for the comprehensive updates

The neck on my old 620 (first series) has a fair amount of underbow too, and I'm not quite sure whether I should risk fixing it. Technically speaking things are still sort of within limits, as there's little space between strings and fretboard when I hold down the low E at pos. 1 and 17; but barré chords are becoming a nuisance to play.

The trussrods have never been adjusted, even though I've used 11-48/50 sets for the last 15 years or so. If I switch to a lighter set, will the neck gradually straighten some?

Probably dropping down to 10s won't change much. If you like 11s, you'd probably be unhappy with 9s. If you have a proper adjustment tool, you can easily make small, incremental adjustments. I do only a quarter turn at a time, and I wait nearly a week before assessing the result (although I'm dealing with more significant problems than you are); if you want to be extra cautious, just turn them an eighth of a turn. You've had the guitar for 15 years-- no rush! Be sure to check both sides of the fretboard/both hi/lo E sting sides to determine if both rods need to be tightened. Prudence, patience and detailed observation will get you where you need to go.

Oh I've had it for a lot longer than that, but I see what you mean. I thought there was some extra caution involved re. the older models and I've never messed with twin trussrods, so I thought I'd better check. Thanks for the tips, I'll do as you suggest and give it a week at least.

STOP -- If your guitar is really old, you better seek further advice. You can determine the date of manufacture here (tabs at top of this page: Service, then Serial Number Decoder). I suspect you're OK, but if you have any doubt, wait for further input from others here after you post the mfr. date. (My guitar is only about six years old.) I suppose I should somehow learn the history of Rick construction.... Mr. Hall has told of older guitars that had to have their necks manually bent/flexed (pre-bent/-flexed) and while holding the neck in that position (only then) tighten the truss rod(s). I don't know which models and/or how old the guitars were that required this method of truss rod adjustment.

Hi Max I just read your post, I was going to add a caution, as you are correct
I have read older guitars need a slightly different method of truss rod adjustment, there is some manual manipulation involved. Apparently if it is not attended to correctly, the finger board can separate from the neck. I'm not sure of the exact age of his Ric,,,,, but it sounds old from his description

Yes, that's why I asked. I'd read about this being the case for the older basses - I have a mid-seventies 4001S too, which has never needed a neck adjustment (heavy nylon-coated tapewounds) - but wasn't sure whether it applied to the guitars as well. My 620 is one of the first series (1980) and has been through a lot; moved through the world's worst climate zones and occasionally used to club roadies away from the buffet.

I'll put on a 10-42 tapewound set tuned down a step for a week or two and see what happens. Thanks for the warnings and advice.