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 Post subject: Rick neck repair video
 Post Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2015 3:16 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 31, 2011 7:16 am
Posts: 215
I subscribe to Stewart-MacDonald's guitar repair tips newsletter. This one just came out, and is interesting:

http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Trade_Sec ... newsletter

FYI


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 Post subject: Re: Rick neck repair video
 Post Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2015 8:48 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 04, 2009 3:15 am
Posts: 674
Location: Florida
yes I had watched that video too, very interesting tricks.


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 Post subject: Rick neck repair video
 Post Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 1:36 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 15, 2005 2:00 pm
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Location: Los Angeles area
That's an informative video ... makes it look so simple. I thought the truss rods had some sort of anchoring end, there at the heel end of the neck ... but since he hammered the TR out from the heel, up through the nut end, obviously there was no anchoring device. What anchors the truss rod at the body (heel) end ?


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 Post subject: Re: Rick neck repair video
 Post Posted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 8:31 am 
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The truss rods are threaded at both ends. At the heel there is a domed-shaped nut that threads onto the end of each rod and serves as a stop, or anchor, as the tension of the rod is adjusted at the opposite, nut end, of the neck. That nut is greater in diameter than the milled/routed chamber in which the rod lies, so it will not pull through as the rod tension is adjusted. This part, is seems, was included in the basic removal and neck prep that was omitted from the video.


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 Post subject: Re: Rick neck repair video
 Post Posted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 9:17 am 
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Maxwell, you're talking about the new rods. These are the old rods. If you look at the rods you'll see they are a long piece of flat stock bent in the middle. The video doesn't show that there is a small metal plate beneath the nuts at the headstock end. When you tighten the nuts, the flat end of the rod bears on the plate beneath them. This causes a bow in the middle of the rods & the pressure holds the neck in place. This is why the old style rods can't be used to pull the neck in place. You manually position the neck & use the rods to hold it in place. The rods don't need an anchor at the body end.


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 Post subject: Re: Rick neck repair video
 Post Posted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 9:45 am 
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Badanovski, this is interesting. You know, the neck heel assembly did seem to look different than my guitar, but, having done online searching/research about Rick truss rods, I never ran across a variation to the current design. I'm going to have to find a photo or diagram of this. Thanks.


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 Post subject: Re: Rick neck repair video
 Post Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 4:15 am 
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Now I recall a discussion here a few years ago about how the old style necks were adjusted, as you describe.


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 Post subject: Re: Rick neck repair video
 Post Posted: Wed Oct 28, 2015 3:42 pm 
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Location: Los Angeles area
Max and Bad ------ thanks for your posts.


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 Post subject: Re: Rick neck repair video
 Post Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 11:23 am 
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Location: The Independent Republic Of Florida
TRUSS ROD ADJUSTMENTS - OLDER MODELS

If your Rickenbacker is an older model (Pre late 1984), DO NOT TIGHTEN the truss rods if the neck is bowed! This will cause the fingerboard to separate from the neck. The truss rods have to be loosened and the neck manually moved into place. When I am alone, the way that I do it if the neck is bowed and has to be tightened is to loosen the rods slightly, lean the neck at about the 7th fret on my knee with the body hanging down and then snug up the rods. The weight of the body hanging will bring the neck to its correct position. If I have someone with me, I place the guitar on my workbench and I have the other person hold the body in place. With a soft neck rest (I use a beanbag type), I then loosen the rods slightly, manually move the neck into place using the beanbag as a cushion, again somewhere around the 7th fret and then snug up the rods. If the neck is back bowed, then just loosen the rods evenly no more than ¼ of a turn daily until the neck sets. You can and should play the guitar between adjustments to get the feel that is right for you.
There is one other very important thing to know. ALWAYS USE A LONG SHAFT ADJUSTMENT WRENCH (¼ Inch Socket) WITH A SCREWDRIVER HANDLE such as the one that usually is available in the boutique section of this website, and NEVER use a "T" handle wrench. The reason for this is because on the screwdriver handle, if tightened too much your hand will slip on the handle and the truss rods will not snap. With the "T" handle, the danger of snapping the rods is much greater!
It really is a simple procedure once you get over the fear of doing it.

TRUSS ROD ADJUSTMENTS - NEWER MODELS

If it is a 1985 (Actually late 1984) or newer, then you can move the neck by adjusting the rods. The neck should be completely straight. Either way, the neck really should not be adjusted more than ¼ turn daily, regardless of the age. Of course you can play the guitar between adjustments to see how it feels to you. One adjustment may be all that it needs. Once the neck is straight, you may want to simply lower the bridge just a bit and also lower the pickups as well. This should keep the sound that you desire.

Please keep in mind that the neck should be perfectly straight on all Rickenbacker's, both older and newer.

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