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 Post subject: Re: Putting new strings on a 360/12
 Post Posted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 7:39 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 30, 2006 1:51 am
Posts: 3362
Location: Atlanta, GA
If the same string is breaking in the same place (like at the bridge), you might suspect a burr at that point could be causing it. A small, fine pitch file might smooth that area out, and eliminate the breakage. If it's breaking randomly due to over tension, try using a lighter gauge (.009 or .008) for that string.


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 Post subject: Re: Putting new strings on a 360/12
 Post Posted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 9:32 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 12, 2005 1:00 pm
Posts: 577
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Or replace 'em one at a time like Roger does.


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 Post subject: Re: Putting new strings on a 360/12
 Post Posted: Wed Dec 06, 2006 1:38 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 12, 2005 1:00 pm
Posts: 577
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
I just restrung my new 360/12. I used Rickenbacker strings and followed McGuinn's 12string DVD as a guide. I didn't find it all that difficult. It didn't take longer than restringing my acoustic 12 string.

Replacing one string at a time is rather straight forward. The only thing I found I had to take care with was to make sure to move from the outside to the inside of the headstock on both sides. If you start with the low E and then move right across the fretboard, you'll wind up working against yourself on the G B and high E strings. So replace the strings in this order:

Both low E's
Both A
Both D
Both high E's
Both B
Both G

After removing a pair, replace the string in the slotted tuner first and then the standard tuner. Tune each to pitch before moving on to the next string. This keeps the tension on the neck from changing.

I couldn't see an advantage to the new cut-through headstock design because I have never experienced the old design. However, following McGuinn's advice on trimming the excess string about 1.5 to 2" past the tuner, threading the high strings seemed to be fairly easy. I threaded the string into the tuner hole sending it through about an inch and then turned the tuner until it was about at right angles, then pulled it back until just 1/8" to 1/4" was sticking through the tuner and tuned it up to pitch.

I also adjusted the truss rod using McGuinn's DVD technique which is to leave the guitar tuned up and pull the strings out of the nut slots and move them to the side off the fretboard. If you move from the outside to the inside (don't move the E or e strings) from A to D and then from B to G in order, you won't mix the string up and they are easy to slide back into the nut again. I now have my neck absolutely flat.

The whole thing took about 45 minutes.

I also took the opportunity to Zymol the neck... very slick!


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 Post subject: Re: Putting new strings on a 360/12
 Post Posted: Sun Dec 10, 2006 8:07 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 1:00 pm
Posts: 997
Location: The Independent Republic Of Florida
Howdy,

When replacing strings, I replace first the slotted strings followed by the others (See Below For the Order). Before that, whether I am using the R tailpiece or the Trapeze tailpiece, I place all of the strings in the slots and place a small piece of masking tape on the bottom side of the tailpiece to hold them in place and place a cotton diaper (Unused of course) underneath to keep the tailpiece from scratching the body. The actual order that I restring is:
11-2-9-4-7-6-12-1-10-3-8-5
The reason I do it this way is to balance the R or the Trapeze tailpiece while restringing. This works for me, and it takes about 15 minutes with the older style slotting. As I do not own a Rickenbacker with the newer through the headstock slotting, I cannot speak on those. I would imagine that it would be a bit easier.

Steve

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"A Splendid Time Is Guaranteed For All"


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 Post subject: Re: Putting new strings on a 360/12
 Post Posted: Sun Dec 10, 2006 8:25 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2005 1:00 pm
Posts: 60
Location: San Francisco
After a few string changes you get used to the R tailpiece and everything.

I go one string at a time, ala the McGuinn dvd. Works like a charm!

Though when I've tightened the truss rods I did it with the strings loose, it worked just as well and the neck is flat.

As far as .10 strings, any singles you can buy will work really, it's the compressed wound strings that are key in the rickenbacker set. They just sound and feel better (imo) than other strings. Their tension is also nice, not too tight.



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 Post subject: Re: Putting new strings on a 360/12
 Post Posted: Sun Dec 10, 2006 8:26 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2005 1:00 pm
Posts: 60
Location: San Francisco
Oh, as far as locking tuners... I don't know how well locking tuners would work with a 'floating' style tailpiece like the R.

My 360/12 stays in tune amazingly well, even after taking a chunk of wood off the headstock!


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 Post subject: Re: Putting new strings on a 360/12
 Post Posted: Sun Dec 10, 2006 10:46 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 4:08 am
Posts: 243
Location: Midwest
I don't disagree with the one-at-a-time McGuinn method. It's time consuming but therapeutic and you are generally in control as you are only fussing with one string at a time while the others are all obediently in their places.

On my earlier post on this thread (11/23), I outlined a way to restring the 12 from scratch. I was dealing with a situation where the "R" on my 360-12 had broken and I had to start over with a new "R" TP. One at a time doesn't work well in that situation.


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