Rickenbacker International Corporation - Forum

Seeking advise in checkering 1988 350
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Author:  gavingo [ Mon May 08, 2006 9:52 am ]
Post subject:  Seeking advise in checkering 1988 350

Looking for advise in heavy checkering of my 1988 350, the finishing did and have not peel off yet, what to do? and what to do for the time being if it is salvageable? or what other remedies or options to take? what type of finishing paint did they use for 1988 model speciffically for 350's?
Thank you in advance for any help or advise from all forumites.

Author:  johnallg [ Mon May 08, 2006 10:29 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Seeking advise in checkering 1988 350

RIC uses conversion varnish. I recommend you read through this forum's posts (lots of info - pay special attention to Dale_Fortune and jingle_jangle) and then see if there is more you need to know. Start there.

Author:  DaleFortune [ Mon May 08, 2006 11:50 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Seeking advise in checkering 1988 350

What usually causes checking of the finish is extreme temperature changes. Example: your instrument is left in the car trunk during a very cold spell, and then it is brought into a very warm room or house. This will cause the wood to expand creating a checking of the finish. Age also has a play in this since it becomes more brittle as it gets older with time. There is not much you can do to reverse this process except a complete refinish. There are lots of people who love this look on vintage or relic instruments. When I restore older guitars, such as a "56" Strat that I did a while back, the owner wanted it to look nice but have that old checked lacquer finish. After the body was totaly refinished it went into the freezer for about an hour then placed infront of the heater vent which gave it an instant vintage look by checking the lacquer. Moisture and humidity will also cause havoc on guitar finishes, this causes the wood to expand while the finish remains the same creating the extreme finish checking and possible wood damage such as warping and seperation of glue joints. To protect your instrument one should always try and maintain a relative temperature and humidity level.
These are the main factors that cause finish checking. Because most all instruments are made from wood, it is to be expected that changes will take place and you must live with this.

Author:  gavingo [ Mon May 08, 2006 12:06 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Seeking advise in checkering 1988 350

Thank you for the well defined causes of instrument checkering.
So definitely, once it has started there are no reversal or chemical spray on to melt and neutralized the effect of the checkering by melting the top finishes with another top coat then slowly melt the top coat away.

How about oil stain finishing?(reading some oil magazine article, of course, after stripping the old finish), then sealed it with a initial prime coat sealer, then "rub" it down with violin finishing oil stain., then what comes last? please note I am just relying of memory from what I read like ten years ago, so please correct me if I am writing it down wrong, and if this is not the ideal finish for a guitar this caliber.

Author:  DaleFortune [ Mon May 08, 2006 12:28 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Seeking advise in checkering 1988 350

Here are the steps that are used to finish or refinish guitars: sealer coats... color coats... preserved by clear coats of lacquer or conversion varnish. never apply coats of stain to the bare wood, for this can not be removed or reversed since it penatrates deep into the grain of the wood.

Author:  gavingo [ Mon May 08, 2006 1:10 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Seeking advise in checkering 1988 350

Thank you, Dale, What kind of finishing remover would you recommend in the initial stage of the refinishing process?
Thank you kindly for all your help, I truly appreciate it, someday I might pay you forward I owe you.

Author:  DaleFortune [ Mon May 08, 2006 10:47 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Seeking advise in checkering 1988 350

Strip-ease and a wooden scraper. I make these myself out of soft pine. They look like a 2 inch wide putty knife. DO NOT get any stripper on the plastic binding...it will melt it.

Author:  gavingo [ Tue May 09, 2006 1:53 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Seeking advise in checkering 1988 350


Strip-ease, what grit on the sandpaper?
How do you do initial sealing with- oil it first then sealer?
Thank you kindly.

Author:  DaleFortune [ Tue May 09, 2006 12:41 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Seeking advise in checkering 1988 350

Never use any oil on the bare wood unless you want a natural wood finish then use Tung Oil Or Danish Watco Oil. As for the sanding process: this all depends on how badly the bare wood is scuffed and scratched up. Usually the process goes like this: 100,150,220, then lastly 320 grit. Never ever sand against or accross the grain of the wood. After you have finished the sanding it's time to apply the finish. Maple needs no filler because it's grain is not open like Ash or Mahogany. I use a sanding sealer on instruments that are being finished with Nitro Lacquer. 4 coats then sand flat. Apply the color over the sealer, do not sand the color coat. 6 to 8 coats of high gloss clear nitro lacquer over the color, let cure for a week then flat sand with 1000 grit wet/dry paper and buff out to a high luster. With C.V. I use the C.V. for a sealer coat, then apply the color. Then I lay on 4 coats of clear C.V. let cure then sand with 600, 800, 1000 grits and buff to a high luster with Maguires polishing compound and finish off with Maguires wax/cleaner. A carnuba wax makes it shine with depth.

Author:  gavingo [ Sat May 13, 2006 8:06 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Seeking advise in checkering 1988 350


I would hold on to the restoration project, as it seems that the checkering is not going in a rate that it might peel off, sooner or later if it start to then I would have (hopeful save up a bit of change)to go for the restoration, I kind of like was going to sand it down in the first place, but when I went to several guitar store, I got a unanimous comment of "to leave it alone", "somebody would want to have the same effect that you had", "Some company would go to the extend of deep freezing the guitar then put it in a heater to..-shock-.. it to get the same effect that you had in your guitar", so fellow forumites, I shall keep it as is, play with it and when the day comes then I shall call Paul or Dale (not necessary in that order, but logistically I would because Paul is in my neck of the wood) Until then, thank you kindly to everyone.

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