Board index » Rick restoration from part to finish




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 Post subject: Re: WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO KNOW MORE ABOUT?
 Post Posted: Tue May 06, 2008 8:53 pm 
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You may recall many months ago what a BIG help you were in "talking me through" an accidental soldering iron burn to the outside radius of the lower horn on my '94 360 12's mapleglow finish. The repair, thanks to your responses, looks terrific and taught me a lot of patience. I know this is for RIC info, but your knowledge of chemicals and solvents is superior to mine and this relates to what I plug the 12 into: Anyway, I have a clean used Crate all tube 50w 212 amp with off white (blonde?) tolex that the previous owner wrote numbers in black permanent marker on the back of. How can I remove this without damage the otherwise intact tolex? Thanks.
AAAaaaarrrggghhhhh..... Donnell, I wish I could help you on this one. There is nothing, to my knowledge, that will remove Magic Marker stains from vinyl (Tolex). The solvents in this allow the dyes (which in a black MM are actually a super-saturated violet because black is a solid that fades in time to light brown)to penetrate into vinyl very deeply. It really troubles me to see guitars, especially Ricks, signed by a celeb in black Magic Marker or Sharpie. In time, this can penetrate completely through the varnish, into the wood itself. No way to get it out, although it can be sanded off wood.

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 Post subject: Re: WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO KNOW MORE ABOUT?
 Post Posted: Tue May 06, 2008 11:14 pm 
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UV Curable finishes. Great stuff I imagine. I've got some experience with UV curable plastics, they're pretty neat, we have a 3D "printer" that uses a UV laser to build up layers of plastic to make complex 3 dimensional plastic models of parts.

Anyway, for guitar finishes, I'll bet they are pretty impervious to most everything. I wonder though, in the event of needing repairs, would you have to completely remove the old finish and reapply from scratch? Can a new layer of this material adhere to an already cured layer?

-cj


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 Post subject: Re: WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO KNOW MORE ABOUT?
 Post Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 1:43 am 
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Anyway, for guitar finishes, I'll bet they are pretty impervious to most everything. I wonder though, in the event of needing repairs, would you have to completely remove the old finish and reapply from scratch? Can a new layer of this material adhere to an already cured layer?

-cj


Not 100% impervious unfortunately! You can surely burn through the coats if you don't know what you're doing. But, no need to strip the entire instrument because the other monumental advantage is the repairability of a UV finish. UV touchups will adhere with the proper sanding technique and a cleverly placed UV lamp. This was demonstrated to me when I toured another guitar factory that is able to turn repairs around almost instantaneously as they did not have to wait for the finish to dry.


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 Post subject: Re: WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO KNOW MORE ABOUT?
 Post Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 6:25 pm 
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Two questions come to mind concerning the new finish. 1) Much has been covered concerning things like Turtle Wax and Zymol for shinning up your Ric's. Does the new finish change that at all?
2) Will the new finish spread to the entire Ric line, or will vintage re-issues like the 325C64 still be CV?
Thanks.


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 Post subject: Re: WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO KNOW MORE ABOUT?
 Post Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 3:02 am 
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Dale, if it's non-yellowing, it has significant UV inhibitors. That's the tradeoff and our concern: we can go with longevity and toughness over a wide range of environmental extremes or we can keep it from yellowing. We just can't do both currently.


I thought I read something on the forums a while ago saying you guys had changed the finish so it wouldn't yellow anymore? Do I remember correctly or not?


Just bumping my question.


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 Post subject: Re: WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO KNOW MORE ABOUT?
 Post Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 7:16 am 
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I know the previous conversation has to do with paint/finish care, etc.
So, I apologize for asking an off-topic question. Please forgive me.
HELP!!!!!!!
I purchased a Rick 4003s8-string (Lefty) some time ago.
Although I've been playing (4 String) bass for almost 30yrs. the 8 is "Somewhat" new to me.

Quick background info.---The bass needed some work, I sent it to Dale, who did a BEAUTIFUL job--Dale, feel free to chime in anytime.
(At the time, I told Dale to keep the strings that were on it).

After receiving said bass, it has been on display/played within an open room from Dec. '07 to present. (I just this week found a hard case that it "Might" fit within).

Now, the action is too high to play this bass, and it needs a new set-up. (You can drive a truck under the strings---YIKES!!!!!!!!)
Questions:

1 What is the best set of strings for an 8-String?? Best guage??? On my 4-strings, I like Medium guage, but I'm worried about putting the wrong guage upon my 8-String.
(With 8-Strings there's ENOUGH tension, I don't want the wrong guage adding MORE pull on the neck)!!!!

2. Where do I go to get a set of 8-String Bass strings??
3. Assuming I find a set, will it be ok for a Lefty bass??

Any/All suggestions welcome!!!!

LeftyRickBass



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 Post subject: Re: WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO KNOW MORE ABOUT?
 Post Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 8:39 am 
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Congrats on a very rare bass! A number of string makers make 8-string sets. The most common and readily available are D'Addario; they've got a couple of sets that are variations in winding and scale, but both are 45-100 in diameter of the main strings. Lefty-righty makes no difference. You could, of course, make up your own set from individual strings as well. It's a good idea to stick to a light or medium light set for the sake of the neck. You might want to mike the set that are on the bass now, to give you an idea of what to buy. If you're saying that it still has the same set that it had when you sent it off, you probably were not aware that anytime the truss rods come out of an instrumen, or, indeed, anytime the nuts on the rods are backed off completely, the rods need to be checked for tension every few weeks, and readjusted if necessary, until they stabilize. This is especially critical with eight string (and twelve string, although that's non-Rick content...) instruments, due to the immense compression and torsion on the neck. Now, your bass has gone awhile without being tended; apparently the rods have never been monitored nor have they been adjusted. The tensioning done on them when they were freshly-reinstalled was too little to prevent the bow that you're seeing. Chances are you don't need a new setup, but you do need to have the rods loosened and the neck brought back to flat, and then retune the strings and readjust the rods, probably several times. On an eight-string, I'd recommend starting with only the main strings tuned to concert pitch. Adjust the truss rods to leave a flat neck, and get that setup stabilized over a few days. Then tune the octave strings up, let it sit for a couple of days, and adjust any relief from that operation out of the neck. Now, wait a week or so, and check it again, and repeat as necessary until after awhile, the neck shows no relief. This brings it to equilibrium again. This will be a long process, taking anywhere from a couple of weeks to a couple of months. I warn you about this, because we don't know how much of a "set" the neck wood has taken after all that unbalance for such a long time.

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Rickenbackers: I love to play them. I enjoy the challenge of working on them. I love the way they sound.


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 Post subject: Re: WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO KNOW MORE ABOUT?
 Post Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 9:10 am 
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Just got my new 360 (left factory in mid April), it's beautiful(has an almost AFG appearance, and the larger inlays look great) and seems to have a slightly different odor than the 325C64 I got in November. Is that the new finish?
And another question: If I switch to the toasters I got from the boutique (in anticipation of getting this 360) can I just ave them installed, or should I really get that cpapcitor for the bridge p-up?
Thanks


The inline capacitor to the bridge pickup is an integral part of vintage/classic jangle. That said, you have at least three options: 1) wire in the bridge pickup without the inline cap; 2) wire in the bridge pickup with the inline cap hard soldered like it used to be done; 3) wire it to a push-pull so you can have it in or out at will. If you choose option (3), let me know and I'll send you a schematic to wire a push-pull to the 5th knob so you can have it either way at your leisure.


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 Post subject: Re: WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO KNOW MORE ABOUT?
 Post Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 9:05 am 
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UV finishes will cover ALL Rickenbacker guitars and as far as the zymol is concerned... I have no idea. But, I don't imagine it would hurt anything. I will say that it has allowed our detail ladies to have a much easier time dressing the black guitars after a few days on the racks (after buffing) after a weekend. As for the short, short term future, we're only talking filler and sealer anyways!
The crowning achievement will be the topcoat!


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 Post subject: Re: WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO KNOW MORE ABOUT?
 Post Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 10:11 am 
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As regards Scratch-X and Zymol where new or newer Ricks are involved, even for UV-cured instruments, it will remove those tiny little scratches and haloing that most instruments seem to get.

My first time using it on a Rick, back when I got my first new Rick in December 2004, was to remove some minor factory swirl marks. It worked a treat, and I still use it all my guitars, old and new. The only finishes that it has no effect on is those finished in polyester. These are my Fender Japan Jags, Jazzmasters, and Mustangs.

I've used them on all sorts of CV finishes, both soft and very tough, and results are always worth the effort. I've used them on a couple of Taylors (which are UV-cured) with great results, too.

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