I was wondering if someone out here might help...I have written the service department at Rickenbacker a couple of times and disappointedly noone has ever gotten back to me...so was hoping somebody here might have some advice...I have a '03 4003 bass and the neck has just never been right since I bought new ( I also own three other Ricks...360, 650, and a 620...and used to own the fabled 4005!)... anyhow,the action is way too high ect...I would deal with the truss rods and it would be abit better, never really right... only to go bad again...so I bought a new set of truss rods thinking that might help which I installed...it was then I saw what the problem is...the nuts at the body end of the rods are sinking into the wood, which seems to be way too soft whenever I adjust the headstock truss screws...the holes are now a good half inch to three quarters of an inch deep...I tried putting washers on the body end of the rods so they wouldn't be sucked up into the holes and stay flush...and tho the washers are very thin, the truss rods arent long enough to come out the headstock end...it is a beautiful bass and I would like to save it...I have owned many Ricks in my life and this is the first one I have ever had a problem with via how the instrument was made...abit disappointed in it actually quality wise via this issue....does anyone have any suggestions? thanks! Jeff in Vermont

First, did you get the autoresponder saying your message was actually received at RIC? If not you have an e-mail problem and/or your e-mail provider can't pass the reputation and spam filters.

Second, the procedure when the wood has softened like this is to use washers, as you have done but at the same time, you need to coat the interior of the holes at the end of the neck with superglue to harden up the wood. There should be no problem to repair this.

Hi John and thank you for getting back to me...yes, did get the autorespond...not a big deal as I am sure your folks are very busy...just so I understand: I would use washers that sorta go down into the hole after hardening the inside up with superglue? I ask that because I did try washers so the nuts were flush with the body end and then the rods were not long enough at the the headstock end to thread...so use washers and make them abit recessed to ensure I have enough length for threading at other end? thanks...also would you have any idea of size of washers? should they be just a tiny bit bigger than the nut on the end? also...do the washers need to be glued into the holes or left free on the truss rod?

I've sort of been through this. You can check out my thread, esp. Page 3 where I have some photos:
http://www.rickenbacker.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14560&start=20
The washer(s) will provide more surface area to resist their being pulled into the wood -- a snow shoe effect, so to speak. The outer diameter of the washer should be as large as you can get it, and the inner hole for the rod to pass through should be only as large as to allow this. As you can see, I had to grind the washers down to reduce their diameters so they would fit in. So you only need one washer, adding more is OK, but, of course, you can't add so many that you cannot secure the adjusting nuts at the headstock end of the neck. I estimated that I would safely need (would feel most comfortable with) each nut being able to be threaded onto the rods at least half way. I also have photo of a nut sitting along side the rods to show working length that I used.

The Super Glue is a good idea, something that I did not think to do. You're doing OK -- taking your time and asking questions, thinking it through. In the end, all will be well.

The photo of the neck end rod lengths and nut comparison is in my Twisted Neck thread: http://www.rickenbacker.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14641&start=10

Maxwell...thanks for all of that...really appreciate and will definitely go over the link you gave here on the forum...hopefully will be ok and will certainly post results...thanks!

just an update...well, I got it done...luckily, I was able to use bigger washers so that the truss rod nuts at the body end were able to remain flush and outside the holes...the rod ends just barely fit and it took numerous tries...so I got the neck nice and straight! Still, I think I am going to take it to a good guitar tech to do a setup and get it all as perfect as can be...don't want to start fiddling with it again...I should have done this in the beginning when I got the bass as it has never been right from when I bought it new...think I just got spoiled as my other three ricks came set up nearly perfectly from factory and this bass just had a few minor problems I should have dealt with years ago...one note, perhaps Rickenbacker could make the truss rods just abit longer, say a quarter of an inch or so...there is plenty or room in the body cavity for that...and that way, adding thick, larger washers to prevent the nuts being drawn up into the neck cavity could be avoided quite easily...

This whole part of the neck was redesigned and updated awhile back which has pretty well eliminated this issue. Instead of a drilled hole that tended to move some wood fiber around, it's now a CNC cut pocket.

Had the same problem with my 2004 Monty Brown. Neck was a nightmare. Great sound but had to sell it. Bought a 2011 4003 and these are superb. The new neck design is rock solid!!!