Hi gang. I have a 360/12 V64 that was manufactured in '88. It's been living under the bed for almost 18 years (same strings, too!) with very minimal play. Took it out to start to enjoy and the neck had a bit of a bow in it. After detuning, popped off the TRC then tuned and started to adjust using about 1/8 turns, I was looking for about .007 of relief at the 9th fret as a start. Well, the rod on the first string side (high E) was only beginning to have some tension (just touching) and I have about .005. The low E side I've cranked down about a half, maybe three-quarter turn and it was tight from the start! Still has a bow of about .015 at the 9th.

I'm a bit wary to go any further given the hibernation this thing has been enjoying. Any thoughts or advice or is this one needing to take an airplane ride to Uncle Paul's Jangle House?

Much thanks.

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Four Rics and Counting!

So after just reading an old post by John Hall, I should have said "Underbow", meaning the strings are too far away from the fretboard. I would like to get the neck more straight if that is what is proper.

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Four Rics and Counting!

Hi Aerome. Your guitar has been under the bed for 18 years ( I feel sorry for both of you)!! Sorry not that you have a beautiful guitar but because your not giving it the attention you both deserve, enough said!

As you guitar has not been played much over almost 2 decades.....it's probably much better if you change the strings prior to doing a set up. It's important to only ever do a set up which includes a truss rod adjustment with new strings. I'm not sure if you did this. The correct gauge strings are important as well. Do you have a RIC nut-driver to turn the nuts ?????

Another thing that you should wish to attend to is to sparingly lubricate the rod thread and nuts. First De-tune the guitar, remove the TRC , turn back the nut on both rods until you expose the section of thread that that nuts had previously located and sparingly lubricate this area. Turn the nut by hand back and forth to work in. Even put one drop of lube on a clean rag and wipe the plate that the nut butts up against. Re tighten the nut by hand, and a little more with the driver, next re tune and do the final adjustment or adjustments. I would recommend this as you guitar has not been played and serviced for a very long time.

1 single drop of lube per nut is all that is needed, don't flood the truss rod cavity.

Yes you do have and underbow and your relief measurements indicate this.
There are different positions that guitar techs use to take these measurements depending on the guitar. It's maybe best to take relief measurement as such, put a capo on the first fret, depress 16th fret and put the feeler gauge under the 7th fret and take the measurement from there.

If you can change the strings to new ones, the lubrication and adjustment on the rods is not hard I'm sure you will get the neck with less relief. There is no such thing a perfect relief measurement for all guitars, but Low E .006 and high E .004 is in the ball park.

You have been wise to be a bit wary, yes your guitar has been in hibernation for too long. however I think you will get a straighter neck. New strings and a 5 minute service of the truss rods will be much better. You could also provide the string height measurement at the 12th fret ( not using a capo) the distance between the fret and under the string, take a measurement under the Bass and treble E strings.

Thanks J! I have the correct tool and I'll take your advice.

Anything else to add will be greatly appreciated.

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Four Rics and Counting!

Aerome, good you have the correct tool, I do think you will be able to straighten the neck on your own, You are almost there on the treble side, not too far on the bass side. With new strings, a lube of the nuts, maybe a 1/8 or 1/4 turn you will be close to a straight neck. Just take one step at a time and be careful and patient.


If there is anything you want to know or your not sure just write in ,,,we can go from there.

What kind of lube are we speaking of here? There is synthetic, preservative, gun-type, OEM Singer Sewing Machine and the 'Ol WD 40?

I have used a few types of lube all worked well, it is actually more important how you apply and where and that you work in the lube to get complete coverage. Ok if you use fine machine oil, then you will only need one drop on each rod and wipe a little of the oil on to the plate that the nuts butts up against. You can even use nut lube the gel type (sauce) but once again it is best used sparingly.
Nut sauce won't drip, but needs to be used sparingly and worked in well

If I use a fluid oil it's best to place a thin cloth (clean) into the truss cavity, I use a thin feeler gauge to push it in there, it will catch any excess oil.....if there is any accidentally applied ( just an extra precaution)

A small fitch brush used by artist's is a perfect way to apply fluid oils sparingly

Whatever lube is used a small amount is placed on the section of the rods that the nut turns on, then by ''hand'' turn the nut back and forth to work the lube to cover all the surface area of the rod thread. Carefully wipe some oil or lube on top the plate and then tighten the nuts back by hand as tight as you can go.

Next step is to use the Rickenbacker tool to tighten both rods evenly until you get the neck straight. You can use the measurements that I left in the previous posts as a gauge.

I prefer a gel-type lube -- I don't want anything to possibly get on (accidently run onto) the finish. I have some stuff I bought in Radio Shack years ago (big tube) and use it for everything, including guitars. Its a clear gel with Teflon in it. But, as Jbud said, you should use it/any lube sparingly; only as much as you need to do the job. I usually will use the end of a toothpick to apply it.